My Own Mid Status Kit (Gabe's aka "Rollo" or "Rulf")

Frame of Thought For This Kit: I call this "The Carhartt" outfit. An older male out of Ribe or Hedeby, a good choice of materials available but nothing exotic. Outfit can be worked in, sturdy, but still cut and fit well. No bright or rich colors, any color seen is easily attainable per the region.

*Note: I am under the umbrella of VNA authenticity standards. This kit is not perfect. Your situation may, and will, vary.

When the Jutlander rises in the morning he must first don his "underwear", a linen shirt and linen underpants or braes. In his hands are his wool trousers based off the Thorsberg pattern. Trousers are unfooted and secured around the waist with a very thin leather belt (secured by a small bone ring). On his feet are dark colored wool nalbingding socks. After a year of wear they fit his foot well and snug and the wool has slightly felted on the sole.

The braes are very long and very white. I bought them from a US company called Underwares. They were $40. I mainly wear them with hose (thus the length). When I am in the public no one will ever see me in my underwear so I tend to wear modern underwear under my wool trousers.

The linen shirt is based off Moseland find minus gores. It was purchased from SlavMedieval Shop (Etsy) out of Poland. It was around $100, all seams and hems are handsewn. I added some light wool finger-weaved cord at the neck to tie off; hidden by the beard.

The trousers (based off the Thorsberg find) were made by Black Swan Design via Historical Enterprise. They are about 4 years old and I am not sure of the exact price but it was over $100. Hem at the cuffs are hand sewn, all other hems and seams are machine sewn. I made the belt, simple and based off the way more elaborate Dover-Jutland find. Socks were made by a friend, I paid for them though - $40.

Next you see the regular "midlayer" or work clothing worn by this man. A wool pillbox style cap, wool tunic in a natural color, aforementioned wool trousers, wool winningas wrapping the lower leg, simple leather shoes, belt and knife.

The cap is based off finds of pillbox caps found in Hedeby, Northern Germany, and Netherlands. Mine is of a light green wool and I made it myself. I followed the pattern of the find in the Netherlands. It's not perfect, I've made about 3 wearable items so far.

The Tunic is based off the Kraglund find with added front gores, I wanted more flow around my legs. I wanted it in a more natural color, maybe even undyed. That said if the wool were lighter there are a few dyes that could make it this shade. The maker is Historical Enterprises (Black Swan) and was close to $200 as there were customizations made for size and fit. Note the close fitting of the forearms and cuffs and the flow and length of the skirt at the hem. Neck, cuffs, and hem are hand sewn.

Belt is a composite and sewn belt. It is a thick leather core with a goat-leather outer sewn together. No dye and both are veg tanned. The buckle is a simple iron d-ring with an iron throat riveted to the leather, based off many common finds. There is a leather keeper ring for the belt end (no metal tip) and, as you will notice, no dangling strap. Width is 3/4 inches and the thickness is "thicc". It is a very sturdy belt.

Knife is steel with cherry handle and a leather sheath. It is larger than the average belt knife but not overtly. I have big hands and really like the extra long handle. Sheath is leather and both knife and sheath fit within typology found in Hedeby. It is secured to my belt with a twisted cord of goat-leather scrap. This rig was made by Jon Von Hall and is a custom job. Thanks dude!

Note: Notice the color difference between the goat-leather of the belt and the goat-leather of the cord on the knife sheath. The cord is scrap - literal trimming of the belt to get it to size. The belt has been oiled and worn (sun and rain exposure) while the scrap I made into cord has been in a bag and has had little exposure.

From the waist down I have my (modern dyed) yellow Thorsberg trousers, yellow could be acheived by a light madder or maybe an onion dye (yellow is one of the easier colors of clothing dye to acheive and with many natural materials).

The leg wraps or winningas are wool, herringbone weave, yellow, and this pair is rather light. I bought them from an Etsy dealer that I cannot remember, years ago. I secure them with a simple tuck. The issue with winningas is I do not believe they were as ubiquetous as reenactors think they are. There is ample evidence for them but in experimental use I find them only useful when one is walking in wet and tall grass or in any situation where "the ground" can get up to your knees. Not useful and sometimes in the way in an urban setting and/or on a ship. Basically, if I feel my lower legs will need extra protection from abrasion and/or moisture than I will wear them.

On my feet are a pair of shoes I made from a kit by Foxes and Ravens (Etsy). Foxes and Ravens cut the leather and I sewed them together my self, this was $90. They are of a Hedeby typology.

Next layer up is the "outer" layer. This Jutlander is out and about, maybe just walking from the urban center of Ribe into some neighboring farmlands to buy something. Maybe he is on some kind of patrol per a duty of some kind?  Checking fishing nets or checking the people he is charged to check fishing nets in the local rivers? What ever the purpose the Jutlander needs some layers to stay warm and dry while out and about in the open. 

The vest I'm wearing is a "thorax warmer" as known in English translation. Can also be called a waistcoat. I will just call it a vest. It is based off a few finds in Hedeby, the harbor in particular. The pieces were coated in tar and seemed to have been cut or ripped apart and used as caulking in between ship-strakes. A vest is also evidenced in both art and literature, especially on The Continent (Holy Roman Empire, Francia, et al).

I made it a few years back, my very first "wearable" hand sewn project. I used patterns found in Susanna Broome's Viking Clothing books. I had 2 surplus Swedish wool blankets, I had bought them when they were under $20 each. They were semi-felted through use but of a basic tabby weave and 5mm thick, both points matched up with the remnants found in Hedeby.

The front is 3 panels and the back is a single panel. I cut them after estimating some measurements, hand sewed all the panels with tan colored wool yarn, and felled the seams flat. It has proven to be very sturdy and useful. I prefer it to a cloak when I need a good layer of warmth but am active and it is not pouring rain. I tend to wear it loose as in the picture but I have belted it and the remnants do have evidence of a non-ferrous metal contact on it (pin? belt?).

I am carrying a basic spear (blunted as it's my demonstration combat spear), a common weapon carried by many. It is under 6 feet long. Also I have a satchel or bag. It is of the wooden "handle" style found in Hedeby and Birka (as well as a few other places) and secured across my body and over my shoulder with a hemp rope. The bag itself is remnants from the wool I used to make my vest. What's in it? For this photo shoot just some random stuff I had laying around - a wood cup, a rolled up belt, a bundle of cordage, and a small pouch with some dice and coins. 

I do have a hood and mantel that I wear, a dark brown wool and based of the Hedeby find that is translated as a hood or maybe a remnant of hose. I bought the hood in the 90s from a maker in the SCA; it is one of the very few items that has been able to cross over from my SCA days. It even has 2 small holes in it I had to patch with wool and is very "working class". I am not wearing it as it is not cold enough and I tend to only wear it in conjuction with my cloak (rain and/or cold).

All in all this outfit is very comfortable and easy to wear. I have hiked and worked (crafted) in this outfit... usually at home for the past 2 years as working my modern job from home a few days a week allow me to wear this if I wish... I have literally done that! If I am not going to impress a low-status or high-status Jutlander male than this is my go-to outfit. The biggest change I have made is wearing my linen Viborg shirt on really hot days. I may even switch the trousers for hose as it will be much cooler. Here is an example of that look:

Please excuse the glasses on my face and around my neck. This picture was taken as I was setting up the meet and greet and testing the camera.

You will note I am not wearing any jewelry except my modern wedding band. I do this on purpose because I feel the common impression of a Viking male drenched in jewelry is over represented. It is my opinion this was not done. My iron belt buckle and the small decorations (stamps) on my knife sheath is decoration enough for a man of mid-status means and "working class". In the future I will be looking at my personal jewelry.